In 1703 (Vikram Samvat 1759, Kartik Shukla 15), Kamati cleared the ruins of the Walkeshwar palace-temple of the "Old Mahadev," which had been destroyed and fallen due to Portuguese religious persecution, and built a magnificent temple and started the worship. The dome (ghud) of this temple is round, like the domes of Goan temples. Since this Mahadev is historical, its story is worth understanding. It sheds much light on the ancient history of the Brahmins. The Walkeshwar temple is an important institution that carries forward the continuous lineage of the Goan Brahmins—both ancient and modern—who reached North Konkan.
History of the Walkeshwar Temple
A small Sanskrit Purana named 'Shrivalukeshwar Mahatmya' is found printed. In it, the story of the Linga of Walkeshwar is told. While Rama and Lakshmana were wandering along the seashore searching for Sita, they reached Mumbai. There, on a mountain, Rama sat on a rock, worrying about Sita. Sage Gautama reached there and, to find Sita quickly, [Sage Gautama] told Rama to perform a puja for Mahadev. Rama sent Lakshmana to bring a stone Linga for the puja. However, seeing that it was taking too long, Gautama had Rama fashion a Linga out of sand. Rama did so, named it Valukeshwar (meaning 'Mahadev of sand'), and sat down to perform the worship.
By then, Lakshmana arrived with a stone Linga. Seeing that Rama had already begun the puja of the sand Linga without waiting for him, he became angry. He asked what should be done with the stone Linga he had brought. Rama then told him to install that one there as well. Lakshmana installed it and performed its puja, giving it the name Lakshmaneshwar. If one sifts through the husk of this mythological story, a few "pearls" are found: both Valukeshwar and Lakshmaneshwar are worthy of examination. According to local oral tradition, the original Linga at Walkeshwar was actually the Lakshmaneshwar one.
Historical Accounts of the Site
The ancient temple was located at the tip of Malabar Hill. In English, this area is called 'Malabar Point', and locally it is known as 'Walkeshwarachi Dandi'. According to Dr. John Fryer’s records from 1674, there were ruins of a magnificent temple near a freshwater pond in that area; Malabari people frequently came there for pilgrimage. That hill was rocky and forested with tall grass. "Malabari" here refers to people from the Konkan. Because the English saw them visiting for pilgrimage, they named the hill 'Malabar Hill'.
The true and ancient name of the hill is Walkeshwar. In 1668, the English recorded the name of that hamlet as 'Vaulquessen'. The freshwater pond mentioned by Fryer near the temple ruins is Banganga, also known as Banatirth or Patalganga. Legend says Rama was thirsty and shot an arrow into the ground to bring forth water; hence the name Banganga.
The ruins Fryer saw fifty to sixty years ago were near the current Walkeshwar temple. They included beautifully carved stones, column capitals, and figurines. This construction likely dates back to the 10th century. In 1810, Edward Moor also observed these ruins. According to him, the architecture of the ancient temple was quite beautiful, with various carved idols scattered around. The temple was reportedly destroyed due to Portuguese religious bigotry.
The Artifacts and Chronology
A broken idol was taken from there to England by Moor. Near Mumbai, in the caves of Gharapuri (Elephanta), there is a massive three-faced Trimurti, and similar three-faced idols were found here too. One such idol was about 2 feet tall, equally wide, and 1.5 feet thick. It was kept for some years in the East India Company's museum in London. Moor eventually took it to his home in Suffolk and placed it on a pedestal. It weighed over a ton. He took another similar three-faced idol from the Walkeshwar ruins to his home as well; it was not broken, stood 2 feet high, and was about 1 foot thick.
According to historian Dr. Hiranand Shastri, the large three-faced idol at Gharapuri is Maheshmurti Shiva. Therefore, the smaller idols taken from Walkeshwar can also be considered Shiva idols. It is estimated that the Walkeshwar and Gharapuri idols were carved around the same period.
An inscription found on a copper vessel in a well at Gharapuri mentions 'Samvat 1143'. This date corresponds to April 15, 1086 AD. Based on this, the name of Gharapuri was 'Shripuri', and its construction likely belongs to the 11th century. By this logic, the construction of the original Walkeshwar temple also dates to approximately the same period—between the 11th and 12th centuries.
The Role of Goan Brahmins
The 'Valukeshwar-Mahatmya' and oral tradition claim Lakshman installed the stone Linga and gave it his name. Even if people view this Lakshman as the brother of Rama from Ayodhya, from a historical perspective, we must look to the era of the aforementioned construction—the 11th and 12th centuries. During this time, Goan Brahmins were prominent in the courts of the Shilaharas in North Konkan. They migrated there in the 9th and 10th centuries and established a 'new' Sashti (Salsette) just like the one in Goa.
Among these Brahmins, three prominent figures named Lakshmana appear in history:
In a 1127 AD decree, Lakshman Nayak was the Prime Minister (Patampradhan) of Aparajita II.
Lakshmanaiya Prabhu was a high official and great minister involved in diplomacy and treasury.
In an 1150 AD stone inscription, Lakshman Prabhu is mentioned as the minister of Haripaladeva. This might be the same Lakshmanaiya Prabhu from Aparajita's time.
In an 1187 AD stone inscription, Lakshman Nayak appears as the Prime Minister of the Konkan Emperor Aparadityadeva.
The Three Ministers and the Temple’s Origin
During the 12th century, three Prime Ministers named Lakshmana served in the Shilahara courts. It is likely that one of them, with the help of other Goan Brahmins, built the original Mahadev temple at Walkeshwar. Because it was built by a person of such high status, the deity was named after him. This evidence strongly suggests the temple was built in the 12th century rather than the 10th, as no such prominent person named Lakshmana appears in the records of earlier centuries.
The story in the Mahatmya—that Rama made a Linga of sand and called it 'Valukeshwar'—is likely a poet’s imagination. Historically, Lakshmaneshwar was the true name. After the Shilahara minister established it, the name 'Walkeshwar' likely became popular much later. The temple site, now called 'Walkeshwarachi Dandi', is surrounded by sea and sand on three sides. If one looks closely at the geography, the tip of the land looks like a Mahadev Linga. Therefore, a Mahadev made of sand (Valuka) being called Walkeshwar is not surprising. Over time, the name Lakshmaneshwar faded, and Walkeshwar remained on the people’s tongues. Truly, the Ayodhya Rama never made a sand Linga there, nor did he name it Walkeshwar or shoot an arrow to create the Ganges. These stories were created by poets to link the temple to the legendary Rama and Lakshmana.
The Miracle of 'Shrigundi' (Rebirth)
Near the Walkeshwar temple, Brahmins established a unique ritual for atonement (Prayashchit). This practice was well-known by the end of the previous century. Instead of the various difficult penances—like sacrifices, chanting, or charity—prescribed by ancient sages like Manu or Yajnavalkya, the Goan Brahmins who reached North Konkan devised a clever and simpler method to burn away sins and achieve a 'rebirth'.
This method involved a large hollowed-out rock with a narrow opening. A person would enter through the top and squeeze out through the bottom hole, symbolizing a new birth from the womb. Around 1757, the traveler Grose noted that Hindus went through this to be purified of sins, though he remarked that the hole seemed too narrow for a person of average size. However, many large-bodied people successfully passed through it. This rock gained great fame in nearby villages.
Kanhoji Angre reportedly passed through this hole once at night.
Edward Moor (1810) wrote that many pilgrims used it for rebirth.
Raghoba Peshwa stayed at Walkeshwar for some time and frequently passed through this rock.
It is even said Shivaji Maharaj passed through it.
This rock is called Shrigundi or Sirgundi. This is a Konkani word, and its original form is likely 'Shrigundo'.
Note - There is a temple dedicated to Shri Gundi Devi, restored in 2015 by the Governor.
Destruction and Restoration
The ancient Walkeshwar temple was destroyed between the 14th and 16th centuries, mostly likely by the Portuguese. Between 1534 and 1552, a Franciscan priest named António do Porto, a known religious zealot, destroyed about 200 temples and converted 10,000 people to Christianity. He converted the caves at Kanheri into a church of St. Michael and placed an image of Our Lady of Immaculate Conception in the caves of Mandapeshwar. He also defaced the idols at Gharapuri (Elephanta). There is no doubt the Portuguese destroyed the original Walkeshwar temple.
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| Ruins of Temple in Shri Gundi Temple (courtesy: theworldofshan insta) |
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| Ruins of Temple in Shri Gundi Temple (courtesy: theworldofshan insta) |
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| Ruins of Temple in Shri Gundi Temple (courtesy: theworldofshan insta) |
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| Seems the ruins are worshipped as Shri Gundi Devi |
About 150 years after António do Porto's time, Rama Kamati rebuilt the temple. It is a miraculous cycle of fate that a temple built by a Goan Brahmin named Lakshman in the 12th century was rebuilt 500–550 years later by another Goan Brahmin named Rama. Despite various rulers—Yadavas, Muslims, Portuguese, and English—the ownership of the site effectively remained in the hands of Goan Brahmins. This happened because the descendants of the Brahmins who arrived during the Shilahara era continued to reside there throughout all these regimes.
Legal Ownership of the Land
Some say the land of Walkeshwar was given to Rama Kamati as an Inam (gift) by the government. But this is not true. If it were an Inam, it would be recorded in the Mumbai government archives, but no such record exists. Furthermore, in April 1720, when Governor Charles Boone ordered the seizure of all of Kamati’s properties, the name of Walkeshwar did not appear in the list. Also, while Rama Kamati's will mentions the Samaliyalal and Venkatesh temples, it does not mention the Walkeshwar Mahadev.
This shows that although Kamati rebuilt the temple at his own expense, he did not claim sole ownership. The land belonged to the entire community of Goan Brahmins. In the 19th century, when the Mumbai government tried to claim rights over the Walkeshwar land, all Goan Brahmins united to prove their collective right, which had continued for 800 years since the 12th century. Rama Kamati’s greatest merit was not just building the temple, but preserving this ancient history for the community.
The Plight of Walkeshwar
The Walkeshwar temple bad fate due to the negligence of the Brahmin community. For 200 years, the Brahmins were the masters of the entire hill, but today only a small portion remains with them.
Between 1812 and 1819, Governor Sir Evan Nepean built a small room on the Walkeshwar cliff.
His successor, Mountstuart Elphinstone (1819–1827), built a bungalow on the very ruins of the ancient temple.
In 1885, the government made this bungalow their permanent seasonal residence.
The Brahmins failed to assert their legal rights during the early years of British rule. They allowed the government and others to build on the hill without formalizing land-lease agreements or written titles. By the time they realized the value of the "golden rocks" of Walkeshwar, the High Court ruled that the community had no solid evidence of ownership.
The "Invasion" of Outsiders
The text notes that in the late 18th century, "outsiders" and "Karhadi" people began arriving at the temple. They initially served as helpers but eventually tried to claim the priesthood for themselves, leading to a legal fight. Around 1788, the Goan Brahmins had to perform a "purification" of the temple. Fortunately, in this specific instance, the government ruled in favor of the Brahmins, confirming that the 800-year legacy of the Mahadev temple belonged to them.